Tomatoes are in grocery stores year-round, but that doesn't mean they're all the same. May tomatoes are not August tomatoes. If you know the difference, you can cook accordingly and avoid disappointment.
Peak tomato season in the US runs from late July through September, with August being the sweet spot. Right now, in mid-May, you're working with early-season tomatoes or greenhouse imports. They're fine—just different. Here's how to buy, store, and cook them.
What to look for when buying tomatoes#
Regardless of season, good tomatoes share a few traits. Look for firm but not hard fruit with smooth, taut skin. Avoid soft spots, wrinkles, or cracks near the stem. The tomato should feel heavy for its size—lightness suggests it's dried out inside.
Smell the stem end. A ripe tomato smells like a tomato—earthy, slightly sweet, unmistakable. If there's no smell, it was picked green and won't deliver much flavor. If it smells fermented or sour, it's past its prime.
Color is variety-dependent. A red beefsteak should be deep red. A green heirloom should be matte green with a slight yellow blush. Cherry tomatoes should be glossy and vibrant. The key is uniformity—no pale patches or green shoulders (unless it's a green variety).
Firmness changes with the season. In May, you want tomatoes that are firm but give slightly under pressure. In August, you can buy softer fruit because it ripened on the vine. Early-season tomatoes need a day or two on the counter to finish ripening. Late-season tomatoes are ready now.
How to store tomatoes (and when to refrigerate)#
The fridge-versus-counter debate is settled: it depends on ripeness and timing.
Unripe or firm tomatoes: Keep them on the counter, stem-side down, away from direct sunlight. They'll ripen over 2–3 days. Once they're ripe (soft at the stem, fragrant, slightly yielding), move them to the fridge if you're not using them immediately.
Ripe tomatoes you'll use within 2 days: Counter is fine. Stem-side down prevents moisture loss. Keep them away from other produce—tomatoes release ethylene gas, which speeds ripening in everything nearby.
Ripe tomatoes you'll use later: Refrigerate. Yes, cold mutes flavor, but it's better than rot. Take them out 30 minutes before cooking or slicing to let them come to room temperature. The flavor returns.
Cut tomatoes: Always refrigerate, cut-side down in an airtight container. Use within 1–2 days.
The Serious Eats fridge test confirmed what food scientists already knew: refrigeration slows flavor compound production, but it doesn't destroy existing flavor. A great August tomato refrigerated for 3 days is still better than a mediocre May tomato left on the counter.
Tomato varieties and what to use them for#
Not all tomatoes cook the same. Choose the variety that matches your dish.
| Variety | Shape / Size | Water content | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Beefsteak | Large, round, ribbed | High | Slicing for sandwiches, burgers, salads |
| Roma (plum) | Oval, smaller | Low (meaty) | Sauces, pastes, roasting |
| Cherry / grape | Small, round / oval | High | Salads, roasting, snacking |
| Heirloom | Variable (often large) | Variable | Slicing, showcasing raw |
| Campari / cocktail | Medium, round | Medium | Salads, light cooking |
Beefsteak tomatoes are the classic slicing tomato. Big, juicy, lots of seeds. Great raw. They turn watery when cooked, so save them for fresh applications.
Roma (or San Marzano) tomatoes are the workhorse. Fewer seeds, thicker walls, less water. They break down into thick, rich sauces and hold their shape when roasted. If you're making marinara or tomato paste, use plum tomatoes.
Cherry and grape tomatoes are sweet and snackable. Cherry tomatoes are rounder and juicier; grape tomatoes are oval and firmer. Both roast beautifully—high heat concentrates their sugar. Toss them whole with olive oil, salt, and garlic at 400°F for 20 minutes.
Heirloom tomatoes are genetically diverse, open-pollinated varieties. They come in every color and shape: striped Green Zebras, purple Cherokee, yellow Brandywines. They're prized for flavor, not uniformity. Use them raw where their complexity shines.
Campari tomatoes are the sweet spot between cherry and beefsteak. Firm enough to slice, sweet enough to eat raw, small enough to roast whole. They're greenhouse-grown and available year-round, which makes them a solid May choice.
How to prep tomatoes#
Most tomatoes need minimal prep. Rinse, dry, and cut. But a few techniques improve results.
Coring: Cut out the tough stem end with a paring knife at a 45-degree angle. For large tomatoes, cut a shallow cone to remove the white core completely.
Peeling: Blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds, transfer to ice water, then slip off the skins. This matters for sauces and soups where skin texture is unwelcome. For rustic dishes, skip it.
Seeding: Cut the tomato in half crosswise (not through the stem) and squeeze gently over the sink. Seeds and gel come out. Do this when you want less liquid in a dish—salads, salsas, bruschetta.
Salting: Slice or dice, sprinkle with salt, and let sit in a colander for 10–15 minutes. The salt draws out moisture, concentrating flavor and preventing sogginess. This is critical for tomato sandwiches and fresh tomato tarts.
Save tomato seeds and gel. Strain the liquid and use it in vinaigrettes or soups—it's packed with umami.
How to cook tomatoes in May (before they peak)#
Early-season tomatoes lack the sugar and acid balance of August fruit. Cooking them differently compensates.
Roast them. High heat (400–425°F) drives off moisture and concentrates whatever sugar is there. Halve cherry tomatoes, toss with olive oil, salt, and a pinch of sugar (yes, sugar—it helps), and roast for 20–25 minutes. They collapse into sweet, jammy pockets. Use them on pasta, grain bowls, or toast.
Make quick tomato sauce. Dice Roma tomatoes, cook them in olive oil with garlic, salt, and a pinch of red pepper flakes for 10 minutes. Crush with a spoon as they soften. Add a splash of balsamic vinegar or a teaspoon of tomato paste to boost depth. Early-season tomatoes benefit from small flavor nudges.
Salt aggressively. Salt doesn't just season—it pulls out liquid and intensifies flavor. For raw applications, salt sliced tomatoes 10 minutes before serving. For cooked dishes, salt early and often.
Pair with fat and acid. Butter, olive oil, and cream all amplify tomato flavor. So do vinegar, lemon juice, and wine. A May tomato with good olive oil and sherry vinegar tastes better than it would alone.
Skip raw showcases until August. Caprese salad, tomato tartare, heirloom tomato salad—save these for peak season. In May, cook your tomatoes or combine them with bold flavors.
When peak season hits (and what changes)#
By late July, everything improves. Local tomatoes flood farmers' markets. Grocery store tomatoes get better too—they're vine-ripened, not picked green and gassed with ethylene.
You'll smell the difference. August tomatoes announce themselves. Perfume from across the kitchen. That's when you make the recipes that depend on raw tomato flavor.
Store them more carefully. Peak-season tomatoes are fragile. A perfect heirloom bruises if you look at it wrong. Buy what you'll use in 2–3 days. Handle gently. Don't stack them.
The fridge becomes the enemy. In August, a cold tomato is a wasted tomato. Keep them on the counter and eat them fast.
Simplicity wins. Slice thick, sprinkle with flaky salt, drizzle with olive oil. That's it. Peak-season tomatoes don't need your help.
Frequently asked questions#
Should I refrigerate tomatoes or keep them on the counter?
Depends on ripeness. Unripe or firm tomatoes stay on the counter until ripe. Ripe tomatoes you'll use within 2 days can stay out. Ripe tomatoes you won't use soon go in the fridge. Cut tomatoes always go in the fridge, cut-side down.
Why do my tomatoes taste bland in May?
They were picked green and ripened off the vine, or they're greenhouse-grown varieties bred for shelf life, not flavor. Cooking them with salt, fat, and acid compensates. Wait until August for tomatoes that taste like tomatoes raw.
What's the difference between Roma and beefsteak tomatoes?
Roma (plum) tomatoes are oval, meaty, and low in water—ideal for sauces and roasting. Beefsteak tomatoes are large, round, and juicy—best for slicing raw. Romas break down into thick sauce; beefsteaks turn watery when cooked.
Can I freeze fresh tomatoes?
Yes. Freeze them whole in a freezer bag. The skins slip off once thawed. Use thawed tomatoes in cooked dishes—sauces, soups, braises. Texture won't work for raw applications, but flavor holds.
When is tomato season in the US?
Peak season is late July through September, with August being the best month. Some regions (California, Florida) have longer windows. Farmers' market tomatoes start appearing in June, but they improve dramatically by mid-summer.
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